Critics loved Attica, then their golden boy turned on them
The Attica chef has launched a sharp attack on the food media industry, disrupting his long-standing status as a critical favorite
Ben Shewry, the chef behind the renowned restaurant Attica, has long occupied a privileged position as a "golden boy" within the culinary world, earning consistent and glowing acclaim from the food media. However, this relationship has undergone a volatile transformation following Shewry’s decision to launch a scathing and unexpected critique against the industry. His actions have been described as taking a "kitchen knife" to the food media establishment, marking a definitive and aggressive break from the critics who previously celebrated his work and helped build his significant public profile.[1][2][3][4]
The fallout from Shewry’s comments has been likened to a "nuclear bomb" landing within the industry, highlighting the complex and often unacknowledged bond shared between chefs and critics. Although the two groups are frequently intertwined in a relationship that is often tighter than either side would like to admit, Shewry’s public turn against the media has exposed deep-seated tensions. This confrontation challenges the traditional dynamics of food journalism and the significant influence that critics hold over the reputations of high-profile chefs and their establishments, leaving the industry to respond to the impact of his rebuke. His public turn against the media has prompted a re-evaluation of the influence and role of food journalism within the culinary industry.[1][2][3][4]
